Nearly one year after Pierpaolo Piccioli kickstarted a Barbie pink fashion agenda with Valentino's fall 2022 collection, the first runways of the fall 2023 season are painting in a new color. They're done with thinking pink, to put it mildly.
At least twelve designers at New York Fashion Week have cast their votes for red as the soon-to-be-everywhere shade of 2023. The majority of red looks arrived in shades with orangey undertones, but some have leaned Taylor Swift 'Maroon' in deeper hues. But regardless of the specific color, what these pieces have in common is that they all look like the best red lipstick feels. They're still saturated and bright enough to stop traffic, but they convey power and a sense of elegance—and maybe a little bit of maturity.
Getty ImagesOne of the first vibrant red looks of the week, at Theory.
Rodin Banica//Getty ImagesAnd a later red look, from Tory Burch’s fall 2023 runway on Monday evening.
"Red has been a color I’ve been forecasting for months so I am beyond thrilled to see it on the runway!" Bloomingdale's fashion director Marissa Galante Frank told me in an email between shows. She describes it as "strong and sexy"—a combination that makes sense in the elevated wardrobing designers like Proenza Schouler have presented so far this season.
Don AshbyAlejandra Alonso Rojas incorporated silky reds into her collection with tailored suits and slinky dresses.
Fernanda Calfat//Getty ImagesPrabal Gurung’s fall 2023 collection incorporated pops of red—including in the models
The first glimpses of 2023's emerging primary color obsession technically came an entire fashion week and another continent ago. Last month at Copenhagen Fashion Week, designers incorporated flashes of red into their collection with sinuous sequin dresses (Ganni), sueded tailored separates (Saks Potts), and coordinating lounge separates (Baum und Pferdgarten).
TONYA MATYUCopenhagen Fashion Week inlcluded models in red at Saks Potts’ fall 2023 show...
TONYA MATYU...and at Ganni’s fall 2023 show.
As fashion month keeps chugging along, that vivacious red keeps appearing on the runway. So far at New York Fashion Week, the shade has manifested in nearly every category of clothing—except for swimwear—and more often than not showed up in head-to-toe monochrome. Some of the most notable looks, like fluid trousers and sharp-shouldered blazer dresses shown at Theory, Jason Wu, Alice + Olivia, and Alejandra Alonso Rojas, took the sophisticated, structured suit sets revived by street style and injected them with fresh a fresh palette. "As we embrace this minimalist cycle, the color red really gives classic, tailored pieces an element of excitement and breathes new life into basics," Galante Frank agreed.

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Credit: Saks Fifth AvenueAnother endorsement for the shade came in the form of a coincidental, albeit off-the-runway, style moment smack in the middle of New York Fashion Week. Rihanna was drenched in fiery red for last night's Super Bowl halftime performance, in a flight suit with an armored breastplate by Loewe, two glove-accentuated puffer jackets by Alaïa, and chunky lug-sole sneakers from MM6 Maison Margiela.
Could other major celebrity style moments be painted red in the upcoming months? I say yes, but for awards show step-and-repeats instead of stadium performances. Proenza Schouler draped one of its models in a stately strapless column gown made of deep red leather. Puppets & Puppets sent two crimson sequin dresses down its runway: one with short sleeves and a bubble hem, the other a sort of harlequin revenge dress with a deep V-neckline that plunged to the model's navel and an angular skirt. Sandy Liang unveiled her first-ever gown in her show's finale, a long-sleeve red dress with a charming rosette detail in the center of the bodice and a flowing train. They all commanded editors to whip out their phones for runway videos, and they all possessed a grown-up glamour that would be very welcome at, say, the Critics' Choice Awards (or even the Oscars.)
CourtesyThe finale look at Sandy Liang, which was also the brand’s first gown.
Rodin Banica//Getty ImagesAt Puppets & Puppets, flashes of red appeared in slick sequin dresses and one voluminous faux fur coat.
It'll be several months before 2023's red trend really saturates fashion, as fall collections land in stores. There are, however, select pieces that can help you get a head start: "Deep red looks amazing in rich leather on tall shaft boots, handbags, and even in dresses like we saw at Proenza Schouler and Simkhai," Galante says. Shop some of our favorites inspired by the fall 2023 runways in the gallery above.
Editor's note: This post has been updated to add more sightings of red on the fall 2023 runways.
Halie LeSavage is the fashion commerce editor at Harper's BAZAAR. Her style reporting covers everything from reviewing the best designer products to profiling emerging brands and designers. Previously, she was the founding retail writer at Morning Brew and a fashion associate at Glamour.
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